Captain’s Log: Märket Lighthouse, June 27, 2024

We set out from Jomalö in northern Åland heading for Öregrund, Sweden. This was our first visit to Märket, and honestly, we weren’t even sure we’d make it there. The trip quickly became one of those “expect the unexpected” sailing days.

The wind died completely, leaving us motoring through increasingly thick fog. The kind of fog where you can barely see the bow of your own boat. We decided to adjust our route and head via Märket Lighthouse – partly because it was on the way, partly because we’d always wanted to see this unusual place where the Finland-Sweden border runs through a tiny island.

Landing at Märket is tricky under the best conditions. There’s only one mooring buoy, the holding for anchors is poor, and there’s no way to tie your boat to shore. You need optimal weather conditions, or it’s simply not safe to go ashore. As we approached, still enveloped in fog, we weren’t optimistic about our chances.

Then something magical happened. The fog lifted just as we arrived. Suddenly we could see the island clearly, locate the buoy, and assess the conditions. The sea was flat, the sun was shining, and we had the place entirely to ourselves. Sometimes sailing luck goes your way.

We secured to the mooring buoy and took the dinghy ashore.

The lighthouse society was there offering guided tours, and we were the only tourists around. The guide walked us through the fascinating history of this peculiar border situation – how the lighthouse was built, how the border was adjusted over the years, and why this tiny rock in the middle of the Baltic matters to both Finland and Sweden.

Of course, we had to do what every visitor does: stand with one foot in Finland and one foot in Sweden. It’s a silly tourist moment, but when you’ve sailed all the way out here, you embrace it.

The lighthouse itself stands stark and beautiful against the sky. The island is mostly bare rock with the lighthouse tower dominating everything. It’s remote, exposed, and strangely compelling – exactly the kind of place that draws sailors.

Practical Information

• Coordinates: 60° 18′ 3”N,19° 7′ 52″E
• Mooring: Single buoy (limited availability)
• Anchoring: Poor holding – not recommended
• Landing: Only possible in calm conditions
• Shore facilities: Lighthouse tours when staff present
• Best visited: Calm weather, good visibility essential

Navigation notes:

• Plan this as a weather-dependent stop, not a guaranteed one
• Take an organised tour from mainland Åland if you really want to go on a specific date
• No services or provisions available

Worth the detour?

Absolutely. Märket is one of those unique places that exists nowhere else – literally a zigzag border accommodating the lighthouse, on a rock in the middle of the sea. The combination of the dramatic setting, the unusual politics, and the sheer remoteness makes it memorable.

We were incredibly lucky with our weather window. What started as a foggy motor turned into one of the highlights of our 2024 sailing season. If you’re sailing between Åland and the Swedish coast and conditions are right, it’s worth the detour.

Just be prepared to turn back if the weather doesn’t cooperate. Märket will still be there next time.